Home Vegetable Gardening
Features in your yard, both natural and human-made, often modify the overall climate and create small areas with distinctly different environmental conditions (including hardiness zones). Here, your zone rating may go up or down by one or possibly even two levels, changing your planting options.
You know you have a drainage problem in your garden when heavy or even moderate rain leaves puddles that take forever to drain. Or you may find out, to your dismay, that under a few inches of okay soil in your yard is a stubborn layer of hardpan (most people discover this water-resistant barrier often packed clay when they dig a deeper-than-usual hole, say, for planting a big shrub or a tree). I Build and garden in raised beds. You control the soil within, and thus it drains well and your plants are happy. Problem averted.
Banish gloom in your yard's dim and tree-shaded areas with shade-loving annuals. Plenty do just fine in shade. Indeed, their flowers last longer without the stress of the sun beating down on them. White and yellow flowers really add sparkle, individually or massed. My favorite annuals for shade include tuberous and fibrous begonias, impatiens, and torenia.
After you've completed the initial drawing of your yard or garden plot to your satisfaction, you can move forward and add the elements for your garden plan. Here are some recommendations Go to the earlier section titled Taking Stock Evaluating What You Already Have for advice on looking at your yard's challenges and advantages. Getting Ideas for Your Garden Space can help you focus on your gardening goals.
Food containing or derived from GMOs needs to be labelled as such. In addition, unintended contamination of non-GM products with GMOs at a level higher than 0.9 requires such non-GM products to be labelled as containing GMOs. It needs to be emphasised that agreed-upon levels of detection (ie 0.9 ) have nothing to do with the safety of the product (see also Sect. 3.3).A product with 50 or 100 GMO content is just as safe to eat as a product with no GMO content. If a product is not safe it will not be allowed onto the market regardless of whether it has 0 , 50 , or 100 GMO content. The agreed-upon level of labelling a product GMO or non-GMO has to do with the advances of detection technologies. It has been recommended that tolerance for GMO presence in food products should in the future be based on agreed-upon contamination levels in the supply chain, not on the technological developments of detection sensitivities.
You can look into a whole class of evergreens called dwarf evergreens or dwarf conifers that are worth considering, especially if your yard is small. These trees often range from tiny little 6-inch tufts to knee-high miniature trees. If you have the space and the inclination, a grouping of dwarf evergreens, perhaps coupled with some judiciously placed rocks, can make a splendid display. Dwarf evergreens also make nice hedges, boundary plantings, foundation plantings, and path side edgings.
When trying to decide where to put a tree, first find out your chosen tree's mature size. Figure out the standard dimensions of the exact variety you've chosen. Varieties vary. For example, the handsome English oak (Quercus robur) in its plain old species form can reach 100 feet tall, whereas a cultivar of it called 'Westminster Globe' gets to only about 45 feet. Here's a less dramatic example The standard kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) has the potential to get about 20 to 30 feet high and wide if that's way too big for your yard, you can look for a cultivar, such as 'Elizabeth Lustgarten,' which remains under 10 feet or so.
Bring the info on the tree's mature size, and march out boldly into your yard or garden with your tape measure and some means of marking the outline (even a length of garden hose or heavy-duty electrical extension cord will do). Mark the spot, making a big outline. It doesn't have to be precise or perfect this outline is for the purposes of eyeballing the tree's potential.
As with trees, plant in the spring This timing gives young plants an opportunity to establish themselves in your yard, a few months in which to develop roots that both anchor and fuel the show this year and for years to come. Local nurseries have the best and broadest selection waiting for you in spring.
Shifts in spatial perspective can lead to strange alternations of allocentric reference. For example, if we are lying down on our backs in a hospital bed, we might refer to the area beyond our feet as in front of me, even though the area beyond the feet is usually referred to as under me. To do this, we may even imagine raising our head a bit to correct the reference field, so that at least our head is still upright. We may also override the normal shape of the allocentric field by our own egocentric perspective. For example, when having a party in the back yard of a house, we may refer to the area on the other side of the house as in back of the house, thereby overriding the usual reference to this area as the front of the house. In this case, we are maintaining our current egocentric position and perspective as basic and locating the external object within that egocentric perspective.
1 Taller groundcovers Ground-covering plants that grow up to 1 foot or more in height have the advantage of creating a barrier. Pedestrians, kids on bikes, and pets are less apt to pass through. So use such plants at property lines, in an unfenced front yard, or even to landscape a curb strip. Examples include candytuft, creeping juniper, potentilla, bear-berry, plumbago, hypericum, and some varieties of liriope.
Adding fruit plants of some kind to your home landscape is not just about harvesting delicious fruit. The size of the plant is important, as is the relative beauty of its flowers and foliage. Ideally, the plant fits in and enhances the attractiveness of your yard even when it's not producing fruit.
Call your electric, telephone, cable, and gas companies to verify locations of underground utilities in your yard before you start digging. Hitting one of these things with a tool could cause you serious harm through electric shock, or at the very least damage the utilities in your house.
Deer will eat almost any plant if they're desperate The problem here is deer overpopulation due to shrinking natural habitat and a lack of natural predators. Deer get hungry, they wander into your yard, and they dine on anything and everything (especially in winter, when natural food is even more scarce). One beleaguered homeowner is not going to solve this problem. Although some repellents supposedly protect garden plants (noisemakers, foul-smelling sprays, bags of human hair from the local salon), the only sure deterrent is an 8-foot-tall fence all the way around your yard (possibly electrified).
Before choosing your vines, consider whether your yard and climate can support hardy or tender vines. You can avoid disappointment by picking out a perennial vine that can survive winter in your climate (see Chapter 3 for hardiness zone info). You can certainly grow a vine that's even tougher (if you live in USDA Zone 6, for instance, you can have a vine rated to Zone 4) for extra insurance. But if you live in Zone 6 and choose a vine that's rated hardy only to Zone 8, it probably won't survive.
In any event, half-compost and half-native soil isn't excessive. Some really keen vegetable gardeners forgo native soil altogether and use 100 percent compost to grow incredible crops. Using solely compost is most feasible in raised beds. Roots relish it. You can get healthier, happier plants. Quite a few gardeners make their own compost, a process that can take three months to a year to complete. Many gardeners also use a compost bin for this process, like the wooden one in Figure 4-1, though you can just pile the compost in an isolated and sectioned-off portion of your yard. Your compost pile should be kept slightly damp but not soggy. Stirring or turning the material every few weeks can speed up the decomposition process. When the compost is dark brown, is cool to the touch, and has a pleasant earthy smell, it's ready to use.
To ward off common tomato diseases, like early blight, try a sprinkling of powdered milk when you set out the tomato transplants. This simple suggestion comes from organic gardener Marion Hess, who is a special contributor for Prodigy's on-line gardening newsletter Prodigy Gardens Newsletter. Marion credits milk with her amazing tomato track record of no diseases, ever. 1 have never even had to rotate my crop ' she marvels. And the technique is gentle, Marion assures. It won't hurt anything in your yard.
Weed trimmers and weed whackers can do a lot of different things around your yard and garden They can cut grass (especially in tricky, hard-to-reach spots like under a fence and along edges and borders) and trim weeds and light brush (for info on lawn care, check out Chapter 10).
Amending the planting hole is usually a good, practical idea. If you know your yard's soil isn't that great, or if your new shrub has a particular soil requirement (for instance, rhododendrons prefer acidic soil), by all means, make soil adjustments. The rule of thumb is half native soil and half organically rich amendments (which can be any or all of the following topsoil, compost, dehydrated manure, loam, or slightly moistened peat moss). Chapter 4 has more info on soil amendments.
Adding useful structures to your yard or garden Beautifying your outdoor space Making your own compost and pest repellant So your garden is all planted, the lawn is mowed, everything is landscaped to your satisfaction, and now you're itching for something else to do to your yard. Don't fret you still have plenty of ways to make your yard even better and to help you enjoy it even more (preferably while sipping a cool lemonade). This chapter contains some fun ideas you can consider.
You can choose from many types of grass seed, and the type you need depends on the climate you live in, the amount of light your yard receives, and whether you have any texture, color, and height preferences for your lawn. Some people like slow-growing grasses so they don't have to mow quite as often. Other people insist on having Kentucky bluegrass in their yards regardless of whether they actually live in Kentucky. I cover many of the options available to you in the next few sections.
Replant the new pieces, some in the same spot and the others perhaps elsewhere in your yard (or give them away to other gardeners). 1 Plant in good (fertile and well-drained) ground. Perhaps the original spot could use a dose of organic matter before you return pieces to it when planting elsewhere in your yard, prepare a bed in advance so you can move quickly. See Chapter 4 for info on soil amendment.
You rarely think of your yard as a garden, yet it is a garden of grass. When you want to put in a new lawn, now's your chance to supply that fertile, well-drained ground that all gardens love so well. Lay down plenty of organic matter (such as compost, leaf mold composted tree and shrub leaves , or well-rotted manure). Add topsoil, too, but only if you can get a weed-free batch. You can mix these goodies with the native soil if it's not dreadful. Otherwise, provide at least 6 to 8 inches of the good stuff, the depth to which grass roots generally grow.
Broadleaf evergreen trees do best in soil that's slightly acidic. If you're not sure whether your yard offers the right growing conditions, get a soil test and amend the soil as recommended beforehand. An acidic mulch, such as chopped-up dried fall leaves from oaks or pine needles, also helps. (See Chapter 4 for more info on soil prep.)
You may know that welcoming other new plants (say, a perennial or a rosebush) to your yard with amended soil is a good idea. The usual advice is to dig the hole and mix some of the native soil with some good organic matter, on the grounds that few of us have fabulous, perfect native soil in our yards. Should you do this for an incoming tree as well Actually, no not because digging a tree-size hole is a lot of work. And not because anyone assumes that your yard has fabulous, perfect native soil. A tree's roots are eventually going to expand well beyond the planting hole you make for them. They need to go deep and wide over time.
Shrubs are the real workhorses of the home landscape. For all intents and purposes, regard them as permanent or long-term fixtures. They're something to see and appreciate in all seasons, bringing heft and stability to your yard. And after they reach mature size, you can maintain them that way with little trouble. So it behooves you to choose wisely, matching your yard's growing conditions and getting the look you want. In the following sections, I tell you about the different types of shrubs.
Flowering shrubs give you the most bang for your buck. You get the benefit of their foliage all season long, so they're a substantial presence in your yard while other flowers annuals and perennials come and go at their feet. But these shrubs also contribute pretty flowers. Some shrubs flower in spring, summer, and even the fall, but spring-flowering shrubs are the most common.
1 Evergreen Evergreen vines keep their foliage over the winter months (individual leaves do get replaced over time, but you don't run into wholesale or dramatic shedding time). In colder areas, the leaves may look rather freeze-dried, but they hang on. In milder climates, winter's show is mainly foliage, not flowers or fruit. No matter where you live, if you don't want a barren-looking winter in your yard, evergreen vines are worthwhile. Favorites include various kinds of ivy, creeping fig (tender perennial), crossvine, and some honeysuckles.
Using raised garden beds is a very practical way to construct a good vegetable garden. They have good drainage, the soil warms up quickly in the spring, they're easy to weed (high off the ground), and you're less likely to step on and compact the soil, so roots can grow better in looser, well aerated ground. Just make bottomless wooden boxes between 8 and 12 inches deep, set them in a sunny, flat area, fill with good soil, and away you go. Native soil can be used if it's of good quality, otherwise half native and half added purchased soil would work fine. See Figure 13-5 for how to build a raised bed. If you use more than one raised bed, space them so you can walk between them or bring a wheelbarrow down the row. Construction tip Brace each corner with a corner post for extra stability. If tunneling rodents are an issue where you garden, keep them out of your raised bed by lining the bottom with a layer of chicken wire. Use a slightly-too-big piece so you can pull it partway up the...
The biggest mistake beginning vegetable gardeners make is using lousy or too-thin soil. Gardening is not rocket science, folks (even if NASA is working on growing vegetables in space). Please, before a single vegetable begins its hopeful, potential-filled life in your yard, give it a very good home This prep work can save you untold disappointment and, perhaps more than any other factor, assure a bountiful and delicious harvest. Making a raised bed. First build up the earth for planting (A). Then plant your garden and put up the wooden walls to contain everything. Add lots and lots of organic matter Try compost (make your own see Composting for Vegetable Gardens later on), dehydrated cow manure, shredded leaves, well-rotted horse manure (call nearby stables), or a mixture thereof. If your yard happens to be blessed with fertile soil, adding organic matter is less crucial, but most soils can stand the improvement. Mix it with the native soil, fifty-fifty, or even more liberally. Here's...
Unfortunately, group homes have received much opposition from communities. NIMBY (acronym for Not In My Backyard) describes the common reaction of community residents when they discover that a group home is targeted for their neighborhood. Current research suggests that protests frequently involve concerns over personal security, declining property values, or a generalized threat to the neighborhood's quality. Some researchers believe that prejudiced attitudes such as ignorance, fear, and distrust are the true reasons for protest.
Following these meetings, interested neighborhood groups receive a request for proposals (Figure 2 RFP step 4) and are asked to provide information about their motivation to initiate such a project, the depth of neighborhood participation, and their vision. From the pool of these applications, sites are selected (Figure 2 step 5) for formal development. As a result of the community outreach, a core group of residents is formed in these neighborhoods. The neighborhood core group serves as leaders that organize planning meetings and encourage participation in the design process from residents within a two block radius. The neighborhood core group also determines the schedule for community involvement, organizational structure, design workshops, installation dates, and plans for maintenance and future development of the project. The group ensures that all voices are heard, that the decision-making process is accessible, and that there is a process to address concerns, such as consensus...
Official Download Link Easy Cellar Stockpiling Food Guide
There is no free download for Easy Cellar Stockpiling Food Guide. You have to pay for it, just as you have to pay for a car, or for a pair of shoes, or to have your house painted.