Solventtype Skin Cleansers

Solvent-type cleansers are designed to remove oily residues from cosmetics. Normally these cleansers are applied by hand to remove oily deposits of colors or pigments from the skin, and are then wiped out with tissue or cloth. Water-oil (W/O) emulsions or simple oils work satisfactorily for this purpose but leave skin oily. Thus surfactant-type cleansers are quite often applied after this treatment. The widespread trend of long-lasting cosmetics requires stronger and laborious cleansing with solvent-type cleansers. In order to avoid excess burden to the skin and achieve effective cleansing of oily deposits, (1) solubilization and dispersibility, and (2) washability with water are key properties of solvent-type cleansers, while mildness is mandatory requirement for the product. For the former need, the product should be more lipophilic, and on the contrary for the latter purpose it is better to be rather hydrophilic. To overcome these contradictory tasks, there are several different formulations developed that are W/O emulsions, gels, or liquid crystals with special selections and combinations of oil phase and aqueous phase. The principle of these formulas is to have potent oily phase, which can easily interact and solubilize liquid deposits, when applied to the skin. Thereafter, by the application of an excess amount of water, a mixture will form between the cleanser and the oily deposit, which will easily turn into a hydro-philic mixture (such as a W/O emulsion) [11,12].

Following are typical formulas of solvent-type skin cleansers with their characteristics described:

Formula 8: Soap-Based Facial Cleansing Lotion (Soap Emulsion)

Ingredients %

Stearyl alcohol 0.5

Hardened palm oil 3

Liquid paraffin 35

Cholesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl 2 Lauroyl glutamate

Dipropylene glycol 6

PEG 400 4

Sorption sesquioleate 1.6

POE(20)oleyl alcohol ether 2.5

Carboxyvinyl polymer (1%) 15

Potassium Hydroxide 0.1 Water q.s.* to 100

Perfume q.s.

Preservative q.s.

Procedure: Add the humectants and chelating agent to the purified water and heat to 70°C (water phase). Heat the oil component ingredients together to make solution, add the surfactants, preservative, and perfume, and keep heating to 70°C. Add this mixture to the water phase.

* q.s., quantum satis (in sufficient amount).

Formula 9: Facial Cleansing Cream (with Arginine to Neutralize Carbomer)

Ingredients

Stearic acid

Cetyl alcohol

Petrolatum

Liquid paraffin

Isopropyl myristate

Propylene glycol

Glycerin monostearate

POE(20)sorbitan monostearate

Arginine

Water

Perfume

Preservative

Procedure: Add the humectant and alkali to the purified water phase. After heating the oil component ingredients together to make a solution, add the surfactants, preservatives, antioxidant, and perfume and keep heating to 70°C. Gradually add this to the water phase.

* q.s., quantum satis (in sufficient amount).

Formula 1G: Gel-Type Makeup Remover

Ingredients

%

(A) Glyceryl trictanoate

56.4

Cetyl octanoate

5.0

POE(25)octyldodecyl ether

16.0

Butyl paraben

0.2

(B) POE(10)methyl glucoside

4.0

Glycerin

1.7

Sorbitol (70%)

9.0

Water

7.3

Methyl paraben

0.1

(C) Perfume

0.3

Procedure: Mix (A) components at 80°C to dissolve completely. Mix (B) components separately and dissolve at 80°C completely. Add (A) to (B) with paddle stirring. Gradually cool down while stirring. Add perfume at 55°C; mixture turns to gel at 50 to 45°C.

Formula 11 Body Wash Based on LES

Ingredients %

Sodium laureth sulfate 40.0

Cocoamidopropylbetain 10.0

Sodium cocoyl glutamate 3.0

Laulamide DEA 3.0

Sodium PCA 2.0

Glycerin 3.0

PEG(150)distearate 0.1

Perfume q.s.

Preservative q.s.

Procedure: Add all the ingredients together and heat to dissolve with stirring. Cool down to room temperature.

* q.s., quantum satis (in sufficient amount).

CONCLUSION 1

A hygiene consumer product must make skin clean and refreshed. There are industrial or |

heavy-duty cleansers available for skin, often with sufficient mildness but nothing espe- .g>

cially elegant. With skin cleansing bars, skin cleansing liquids are the products categorized ^

as cosmetics and personal care. Skin cleansing liquids are more and more chosen by con- s sumers with highly perspective or emotional motives, which is why skin cleansing liquids must carry concepts that appeal to consumers' trendy desires. Cosmetic scientists will o continue challenging such difficult tasks to make innovative products, with the encouraging findings that the mental effects of cosmetics use improves quality of life.

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