Hair Conditioning Improved Combing

Various types of silicone are used to give different degrees of hair conditioning. Dimethi-cone Copolyols provide light conditioning due to their solubility in water and low level of substantivity. They can also help reduce eye irritation associated with shampoos and similar products that contain anionic surfactants. Higher molecular weight Dimethicones/ Dimethiconols or Amodimethicones provide a higher level of conditioning due to their insolubility in water and greater substantivity. The latter have an affinity for negatively charged surfaces such as the proteinaceous surface of the hair, which contributes to their substantivity. Evaluation of the average detangling times of Dimethiconol (gum), Amodi-methicone and Dimethicone (high viscosity fluid) emulsions at a 4% level in an illustrative two-in-one shampoo formulation indicates that they all show significant improvement over the untreated control tress with the Dimethiconol emulsion providing the best conditioning effect [16,17] (see Figure 3).

Synergistic effects have been observed between quaternary polymers commonly used in shampoos for conditioning and Dimethicone Copolyols. Better detangling results are observed for shampoos containing Dimethicone Copolyol and quaternary polymers than with the quaternary polymers or Dimethicone Copolyols alone [17]. Similar evaluation of silicones in conditioners, indicates that Dimethicone emulsions provides the best conditioning effect in rinse-off products and in permanent waving products, an emulsion of Trimethylsilylamodimethicone significantly reduces the wet and dry combing force.

Figure 3 Hand detangling results on slightly bleached hair for diluted silicone emulsions. (A) Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, (B) Amodimethicone (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (and) Trideceth-12, and (C) Dimethicone (and) Laureth-23 (and) Laureth-4.

Combinations of silicones such as Cyclomethicone, silicone blends and Phenyl Trimethi-cone are the basis for anhydrous leave-in conditioners, sometimes referred to as ''cuticle coat'' products [16].

Sensory Enhancement

As in skincare, silicones impart a soft smooth feel to the hair. Sensory evaluations of cuticle coat formulations consisting entirely of blends of silicone showed that, in addition to ease of combing, they improve spreadability, silkiness and softness, gloss and perceived repair of split ends compared to the control [16,18].

Silicones as Drying Aids

Silicones such as Amodimethicone can help hair dry more quickly in comparison to drying aids such as Stearalkonium Chloride, preventing damage due to the use of hair dryers etc. [16].

Foam Boosting

Dimethicone Copolyols can be used to boost the foaming properties of shampoos as well as provide a light conditioning effect [16].

Reduced Flyaway

Tests comparing shampoo formulations containing quaternary polymers to those with quaternary polymers and Dimethicone Copolyols show an improvement in static control with the addition of the silicone. Sensory evaluation has also shown a reduction of flyaway with Dimethicone emulsions [16,18].

Improved Shine

Silicones, in particular Phenyl Trimethicone, are recognized for their ability to enhance hair shine and gloss along with adding softness, manageability, and smoothness to the abraded hair cuticle [16,19].

Natural-Look Fixatives

Because of their low surface tension, silicones spread easily to help fixative products distribute evenly on the surface of hair and improving their effectiveness. They are also used in conjunction with or as a replacement for organic plasticizers. Organic materials tend to be hydrophilic, which diminishes the holding power of a resin. In contrast, the hydrophobic nature of silicones helps repel water so there is less opportunity to reduce the resin's holding properties. The use of Dimethicone Copolyol as a resin plasticizer can also help give hair a more natural look [16].

Longer Lasting Permanent Wave and Coloring Products

Silicones, such as Amodimethicone, can be used to provide a more durable conditioning effect and a longer lasting permanent wave. Pretreatments containing silicone blends help prevent hair damage during the harsh perming process. In hair color products, blends of volatile and non-volatile silicone (Cyclomethicone and Amodimethicone) can be used to

seal in the hair cuticle and hold color. The volatile silicone evaporates, leaving behind a smooth, uniform film on the surface of the hair [16,20].

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Responses

  • Veneranda
    Why have dimethiconol in shampoo?
    6 years ago
  • caramella
    Which products contain cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol in leave in conditioners?
    6 years ago

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